Save to List: boom saloon’s Athens

01_SNFCC – via the free shuttle bus

The Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre stands as a marker for what it is to live in a capital which understands, values and nurtures culture. Envisioned as a public space open to all – where everyone has free access and can participate in a multitude of cultural, educational, athletic, environmental and recreational activities and events – the spectacular site is also home to the Greek National Opera, The National Library of Greece, the Stavros Niarchos Park and the impressive Lighthouse. Designed by Renzo Piano, the project restores the natural connection between the land and sea via a simple topographic idea: to ‘lift’ a piece of land to design a sloping park, under which are placed the building facilities and from the top of which we regain the previously lost view of the sea and the Acropolis. Catch the free shuttle bus from Syntagma to enjoy free fitness classes, exhibitions, lectures and workshops – or simply enjoy the site and its focus on biodiversity and sustainability.

02_Brotherakia – for life changing ‘egg and chips and’ Rebetiko

Gather a gang, head to Brotherakia, order the avga me patates with Stakovoutiro and soak in the atmosphere of Rebetiko alongside the locals; trust us, not to be missed.

03_Benaki Museum – late night on a Thursday, from the rooftop

The Benaki Museum comprises of seven museums, five active archives and seven conservation libraries – many housed in former mansions bequeathed to the Foundation, making for a unique experience in each venue. Founded by Antonis Benakis, who settled permanently in Athens in 1926, the museum houses over 120,000 artworks from the Paleolithic to current day. We recommend starting with the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture, one of the most beautiful neoclassical-style buildings in Athens and the Benakis’s former home. It was converted into a museum in order to shelter the collections of Antonis and was donated to the Greek nation by himself and his three sisters, Alexandra, Penelope and Argine. Visit on Thursday night for free entry and opening until midnight – brace yourself for a collection of extraordinary depth and volume. You’ll need to head to the rooftop to catch your breath – handily, also one of the best views across the city.

04_Heteroclito – for the house white at the bottom of the menu

Focussed on natural wines with mild methods of cultivation, Hereroclito offers a selection of over 200 – alongside local cheeses, tastings, cellar building recommendations and wine list curation. Expect to enjoy whatever you order – remembering the list changes frequently – but don’t overlook the house options at the very bottom of the menu. They’re a perfect example of unpretentious, quality local produce.

05_Atlantikos – as a regular, for ‘chef’s table’

You’ll be hard pressed to find a seafood loving Athenian who hasn’t been to Atlantikos; much loved, fantastic value, always busy, always worth a shot at getting a table at. Visit often enough and you might be lucky enough to get ‘chef’s table’ if you’re eating solo – perched right next to the kitchen, opposite the till. Don’t miss the thrapsalo, seafood platter and sea bass.

06_Historical sites – on the first Sunday of the month, November-March

For many visitors, laying eyes upon the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora, the Theatre of Herodes Atticus and other famed archaeological sites is top of the Athens hitlist. We’d never dispute the wonder of the Parthenon at sunset, but would recommend saving your visits for the first Sunday of November-March, when admission to archaeological sites, historical sites, monuments and museums owned by the State and managed by the Hellenic Ministry of Culture and Sports is free of charge for all visitors. Make sure to see the Kerameikos Ancient Cemetery, filled with tombstones, mausoleums and statues of impeccable quality – also a hotspot for local flora and fauna, including many [apparently over 140] tortoise. Don’t miss the minimal, cylindrical stelae of the site – prevalent following a decree by the statesman Demetrius of Phalerum who, aiming to curb the ostentatious displays of wealth in funerary practices, implemented sumptuary laws that restricted the size and decoration of tombstones. This led to the adoption of more modest and standardised grave markers to promote equality among citizens and prevent excessive displays that could lead to social envy or discord.

07_Exarcheia’s independent shops – for unique gifts and produce unavailable elsewhere

Sidestep the tat of many of Plaka’s souvenir shops to invest in local artisans instead; you’ll find a selection hard to beat in Exarcheia. Stop by Aphilo for a thoughtfully curated selection of local homewares, cosmetics, jewellery and clothes from makers across Greece; don’t miss downstairs. Christina Mandilari’s Naked Summers is a stone’s throw away, showcasing the artist and designer’s work across a selection of wall art, textiles, ceramics and other home decor. Head to BOHBO and Yesterday’s Bread for vintage clothing before soaking in the incredible design of Esiot [expertly crafted by interior architect Nancy Katri to highlight the craftsmanship of the brand exquisite footwear] – then wrap up the day with wine from Oinotypo. If you’re in need of further sustenance, do not miss Cookoomela for the best vegan souvlaki in the area.

08_Alexis Grigoropoulos memorial – respectfully, with no phone

Anyone new to Athens will quickly notice the police presence omnipresent in the city – take time to learn about the Athens Polytechnic Uprising and the history of Exarcheia to start to really understand the city you walk within. At the corner of Mesolongiou and Tzavella in Exarcheia, you’ll find the the memorial plaque for Alexis Grigoropoulos, whose brutal and indefensible 2008 murder by police was a political flashpoint across the country. The 15 year old is also the subject of a multi-storey memorial mural nearby – a poignant reminder of local history which is still very much felt today.

09_Current Athens – to uncover pop-up venues, underground exhibits and unexpected openings

An online platform for the non-hierarchical promotion of contemporary art, CURRENT Athens is your go-to for filling your exhibition diary like a local. It has led us to pop-ups in abandoned shop fronts and openings spilling into streets alongside larger spaces such as Tavros, which explores notions of democracy, equality and ecology whilst looking to address these issues head-on through dialogue, listening and learning.

10_The Riviera – by tram

Craft your own hop-on-hop-off adventure with a single tram ticket. Board the T6 at Syntagma to head out to Edem [stopping off at the beach for a 3 EURO carafe of wine on the beachfront if you so choose…] before strolling along the harbour front and watching the locals playing sports at Kalamaki. Jump back onto the tram and head along to Glyfada for seafood and cocktails, taking in the view as you travel. Off the main drag, Psaroúlēs has a selection to please most, whilst Sea Spice, PSAROU and Sardelaki are all worth an evening, too.

11_Kora, 72H, Neropolto – early, for some of Greece’s best buns

Set your alarm for these famed hotspots – those who arrive late miss out on a breakfast of coffee and buns to remember.

12_Desired Landscapes – to see the city through the eyes of a local

Natassa Pappa’s Desired Landscapes has blossomed from magazine to studio store, events host and city guide. Stop by the publishing house’s ‘pocket shop’ to enjoy the publications in person and hear more about the walking tours available – just make sure to check the opening times before you visit.

13_Gonia – for interiors, inspiration and community

Gonia, just one outlet of Lab Piree Superstudio’s mega brand, serves as another highlight of Exarcheia. Drawing upon Lab Piree’s tile heritage, Gonia stands as a reimagining of the concept store – light, airy and filled with the textures and tones of materiality any design eye will appreciate. The multipurpose space is at once coffee shop, wine bar, studio, library and underground gallery, with a productive atmosphere and regular vinyl nights alongside exhibition openings and kerbside coffees. Stop by for a drink [we vouch for the Greek tea with lemon], stay to fire off some emails, flick through the carefully curated magazines on offer and take in the latest exhibition.