Save to List: Donagh Horgan’s Barbados
A world’s worth of recommended spots from our global community
words – donagh horgan
location – rotterdam, the netherlands
At the eastern edge of the Caribbean archipelago sits the island of Barbados, the first African majority descended island in the Atlantic. Settled by Dutch and Portuguese explorers from the 1500s, these raided the island of its Indigenous peoples – with the British later establishing a significant operation in 1625 for the cultivation of tobacco and sugar. The early plantations depended on the labour of indentured Irish and Scottish servants, being gradually replaced with a harsh regime of chattel slavery from West Africa. Today, Barbados is a proud republic – and one of the fastest developing countries in the region, where growing tourism revenues support good quality education, innovation and infrastructure. Its life expectancy is this year set to overtake that of the US; an amazing achievement underscoring the nation’s desire to man its own sails. As a travel writer, photographer and academic-practitioner working globally on regenerative tourism, placemaking and socio-spatial equity, my interest in Barbados grew as I began to learn more about the links between the island and my hometown of Cork, from where thousands were sent following the Cromwellian conquest of Ireland. Read on for my unique take on the island famed for its rum and Rihanna – whose songs inform the descriptions below.
01_Shut up and drive
The island’s iconic blue and yellow buses connect up and down the main arteries of the island, from Bridgetown to Holetown and north, then along the south coast. Minivans follow the same routes for the same price, but can be a bit like sardine cans. My favourite pastime was simply to ride the buses, wind blowing against my face as I people-watched and observed the island life unfold from my window. The soft pace of Caribbean time means that this is the perfect way to acclimatise, and feel as a local.
02_Pour it up
Characterised by a unique fusion of West African, Irish, Spanish, Portuguese, Indian and English cuisines, Bajan food is as diverse as it is flavoursome. Renowned Cutters (fish bap) stall Cuzz’s is worth the visit, in the car park of Pebble beach, while Oistin’s fish fry is a fun way to dine on Friday nights. Notably the water can be drunk directly from the tap, offering a refreshing limestone taste, which can be a really great way to reduce costs at an expensive destination.
03_Umbrella, eile eile
Reminiscent of the silky shores of 1990’s Lilt advertisements, the beaches of Barbados are unspoiled for the most part – despite development. Expect chandelier crystal waters, with small fry skimming the calm crested waves. All beaches on the island have public access, meaning that you can discretely set your towel and snorkels amidst luxury holidaymakers. Mullins beach, south of Speightstown, is calm and cosy, while the coves adjacent to the Sandals resort offer a windswept, castaway vibe. Snorkel with turtles with cruisers at Carlisle Bay. Remember UV protection is a must, for all skin tones.
04_We found love in a hopeless place
The wild east coast is home to rugged surfing coves, quaint rural hamlets and isolated communities descended from poor whites. Redlegs, as they are known, have been manipulated by continental culture wars pent on giving support to the Irish slave myth. This is the narrative peddled by American far right agitators: that the indentured Irish suffered an equal level of dehumanisation as enslaved West African people, obscuring the fact that while exploited they were not, in fact, traded as property. Today, Barbados is a deeply mixed culture, where stories of solidarity between slaves and indentured servants revolting against imperial masters abound, and where the Cork accent lingers in the sing-song Bajan tones.
05_Like diamonds in the sky
The central inner part of the island holds dark secrets, which appear as wild and ragged as the remnants of sugar plantations. The legacy of exploitation hangs high on a landscape butchered by monocultures, of which tourism is only the latest. Concerted efforts to reduce tourism leakage [in particular from cruise tours] and bring benefits to non-coastal areas are important, but not immediately visible. Visitors should not hesitate to explore deep into the island to discover true gems. Stargazing and dreaming under the milky way is a sombre way to contemplate the island’s traumatic past. Centrally, cane fields waft in the breeze like palimpsests of a brutal past.
06_This is what you came for
Museums, including the oldest synagogue in the Caribbean, are important to contextualise the migration context of Barbados. The national museum, set within the original garrison of Bridgetown [near the cricket oval area] offers a great way to unpack the social history of the island – from revolts and uprisings to democratic independence. ‘Entangled Islands,’ a temporary exhibition on the links between Ireland and the Caribbean, shone a light on the connection between the colonies. In the permanent exhibition you can learn about Grantley Adams, the first president and union organiser, alongside more contemporary, notable people – including RiRi herself. Stop off at nearby Rihanna Drive to see the humble home she grew up in.
07_Stay
The capital, Bridgetown, is itself a UNESCO world heritage site – with uniquely Georgian architecture and stone buildings reminiscent of Britain. These gave the island its nickname, Bimshire. Walk through the animated market areas and shop for duty free amongst monied cruise line passengers. Tourism leakage arising from the glut of luxury hotels and other operators in Barbados is omnipresent, meaning that it is worth making the effort to check local ownership of hotels, restaurants and other services before making any decisions. A leader in regional democracy, the economic balance depends on enduring benefits of tourism for Barbadians.
08_Don’t stop the music
Everywhere on the island, whether on a bumpy bus ride, local bar or seaside shack the totally tropical soundtrack of the Caribbean is constant – whether reggae, calypso or dancehall. A marker of the relaxed island life enjoyed by locals and visitors alike, you will soon become accustomed to booming rudeboys and gentler melodies that whistle in the wind. Set your watch to Caribbean time and you might find yourself so chilled that you miss your return flight.
Overall, Barbados has something to offer all tastes – it is as diverse as its people themselves. As a leading destination and democracy in the Caribbean, the island has a unique opportunity to develop a regenerative tourism that allows for a unique cross-cultural engagement around some of the persistent legacies of imperialism. This is an approach that focuses on reestablishing relationships between peoples, land and nature – one that confronts the enduring inequity of exploited nations in a purposeful and proactive way. As such, a unique offer may be born, of a tourism that seeks to leave destinations in a better state by promoting tourism as a force for good, and dissolving differences between visitors and local populations. Ditch the tour bus and discover Barbados independently, and you will reap the riches of this Caribbean Queen.
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